Rarely is anything as it appears. How’s that for an overused truism? But it’s one I keep learning again and again. Take the case of this abandoned house. During a seven-day research trip last week, it was first on a long list of places and people to see on the Nez Perce Reservation near Lewiston, Idaho.
Two years ago, my daughter Erin gave me a sepia-toned and more poignant version taken by a professional photographer. The gift was tied to a book that I was writing with Ann Terry Hill. The book, Pendleton Round-Up at 100: Oregon’s Legendary Rodeo, includes stories about legendary Nez Perce cowboy Jackson Sundown. A caption below the photograph, which is displayed in my office bookcase, identifies the house as Sundown’s cabin. I had emailed the photographer for directions in 2007.
I finally made it there on June 20, beginning research for a much bigger story. The house, leaning south amid a hillside of flowering peas, is on Highway 95 in Culdesac. I took a dozen photos inside and out, and videotaped everything, complete with a hushed narration meant to lend solemnity to the moment. I rubbed my hand over wood weathered black. I peered at nails protruding from a wall, wondering whether Sundown used them to hang his clothes. I wanted to feel his presence eighty-six years after his death.
Later while talking to some of Sundown’s relatives about the house, I realized something was amiss. The lonely place beneath a dying tree wasn’t Sundown’s. The photographer had been given bad information.
I drove south on 95 again, but not as far, and turned on Mission Creek Road at the Jacques Spur Junction Cafe, an out-of-the-way place made famous by the unsolved murder of Rufus the friendly wild turkey. Scanning a creek-fed stand of trees bordering a wheat field, I couldn’t spot the house where I was told it would be. So I parked and walked slowly along the road, peering again into the trees. Still no luck.
As I headed to my car, convinced I was in the wrong place again, something brown amid the greenery caught my eye. I tromped across the field with cameras slung over my shoulders. Into the underbrush I plunged. To make any headway I had to push aside slender and delicate white-flowering plants taller than me, plants I later learned are musquash root, more formally known as poison hemlock, whose juice put an end to Socrates.
In the dusk-like shade of walnut trees and the tallest cherry tree I’ve seen, the crumbling remains of the house came into view. Much of the second story has collapsed, and the rest is coming apart board by board. But it was intact enough to imagine Sundown living there with his second wife, Cecilia Wapsheli, who owned the house and ranch before she met the legendary horseman and whose descendant still owns the property.
For awhile I sat at the edge of the creek behind the house and listened to water flowing over rocks. In my mind an untold story began to write itself.
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I remember seeing you out there when you were taking pictures. I live about a half mile up the road. The place is much easier to see in the fall and early spring.
I have always wondered why the tribe was just letting the house rot away. Although there isn’t much they can do about it now.
I had always heard that the old building in the first photo was the old schoolhouse but have never been able to confirm that.
By the way, Jackson Sundown is buried up the road at the cemetery at the Slickpoo Mission and not at the cemetery across the street from his house.
Your home is in beautiful country. I hope to make a return trip in September. I’m sure a stranger like me stands out on Mission Creek Road. I did meet Joetta Pfeifer, who lives next to the Slickpoo Mission church, and Leo Hasenoehrl on the other side.
It took me awhile to find the Slickpoo cemetery and, eventually, Sundown’s headstone. I wonder why he’s there and not in the cemetery across the road from where he lived, where his wife Cecilia is buried.
I’ve been told by Sundown’s relatives that the creek used to be farther back from the house and a that a spring was there too.
It’s great to read this about Sundown’s real cabin, and final resting place. I’m looking forward to your next book already.
Thanks, Mike. I’ve learned a lot, but much more remains to be found. Stay tuned.
Mike–this evokes beautiful pictures, like Mike Campbell, I can hardly wait for your next book!
I am halfway through Ken Kesey’s fiction LAST GO ROUND about Sundown, George Fletcher and Johnathan Spain…Have you read this? I have no idea how accurate it is but Kesey’s talent wisely dresses each of these men distinctly and well.
Thank you for posting the photo of the real place and sharing your impressions/memories.
from Oregon’s south side of the Blue Mountains
Thanks for your comments. Much appreciated. I have a copy of Kesey’s book but haven’t read it yet. Coincidentally, I’m in Pendleton for the Round-Up and two book signings Friday and Saturday. Earlier today I had my second long visit with a relative of John Spain in La Grande. I’m meeting with another relative on Monday in Idaho. I’ve collected fascinating material about him and his brother Fred. Much more research remains to be done.
I find this part of the country to be fascinating. The geography is both stunning and humbling. I have much more to learn and observe.
Do you know a movie is in the making on my husband’s ancestor, Jackson Sundown?
My friend, Katherine Wilson, Eugene, OR is the screenplay writer. Best, ak-redthunder
I’m glad you stumbled upon this blog item. Since my visit to Lapwai and points south, I’ve done much more research on Jackson Sundown, as well as John Spain and George Fletcher. I’m also immersed in extensive reading about the Nez Perce and have learned a great deal about the past that the land and its people can’t forget. In between, I’ve been pulling together a large exhibit about the Pendleton Round-Up for the Oregon Historical Society in Portland, which opens March 4.
I did not know about the movie you mention. But I am aware of another one by Cedric and Tania Wildbill, who produced the “American Cowboys” documentary about the trio. Their film is a fictional account. Is that the case with your friend, or is she doing a documentary about Sundown’s life? Regardless, it seems as if I should make contact with her. One of my quests is to find a piece of film footage taken of Sundown not long before he died at Cecilia’s place on Mission Creek. I know it’s out there waiting to be discovered.
I also would like to talk with you and your husband. When I was working on the Round-Up book, including doing short profiles of Sundown, Spain, and Fletcher, their stories grabbed me. They’ve never been told with the depth and accuracy that they deserve. That’s what I’m attempting to do — and need all the help I can get.
Thanks for posting your comment.
glad to stumple across this…..I am a decendent of Jackson Sundown through my aunt Rachel Zumalt. I have several photos of Jackson Sundown and one with his wife. Stll doing my family research and not sure if it was his first or second wife with him. I am an enrolled Nez Perce and my family is direct decendent of Chief Joseph. I live in Kamiah, Idaho and have been doing my family genealogy for years and still going strong. Please send me what you have of Cecelia so I can compare the photos. Thank you. Marci Bailey mbk_2009@msn.com
I know more about her and would be happy to discuss via email. She was definitely Nez Perce, which is why she had a land allotment at Jacques Spur. And sorry for such a tardy response. For some reason I overlooked your posting.